Tuesday, December 3, 2019

Halloween Stories 2019: Haunted Travels and Ghostly Journeys


Every year for Halloween, I collect scary stories for some serious re-telling. This time around, I have decided to share some places I have visited which felt really weird and where I had some strange experiences. No, I never go “ghost-hunting” or intentionally seek out haunted places. But there are some tourist spots, museums, hotels or lodging houses that really creeped me out. This is the reason why for some time I avoided travelling alone and managed to convinced Wifey to come with me on some of my work-related trips.

Hotels
Long before the big 1990 earthquake, Baguio has had a “haunted” reputation. During one of our Leonin Clan vacations in my youth, I had the misfortune of falling sick with a very high fever. While the rest of the cousins toured Burnham, Mines View, and Wright Parks, I got left behind in our hotel. The old wood and stone cabin design of Inn Rocio was luxurious and grand, but felt like it held too many memories of the past. I was sleeping inside our family suite room, darkened by the heavy curtains and the gloomy weather, when I woke up with a start. I stared into the darkness, listening, aware that someone or something was with me in the room. I was drawn to a pitch black corner of the room as if someone was standing in the shadows. FortunateIy, my aunt, Tita Emma decided to stay behind too and she entered the room just as I was about to scream my head off. 
Fast forward 25 years later, almost a decade after the big quake, and I was on one of my official travels in Baguio. I was doing a talk for the Cordillera senior citizens and was billeted at the same venue for the 2-day lecture. Right-smack in the middle of city, surrounded by the market, Burnham Park, and the shops, you would not think Hotel Veniz could ever be haunted. But one night during a power outage, my room suddenly felt very heavy -  as if the room was so full of people standing around in the dark. I got so freaked, I opened my door and stood in the hallway until the lights came back on.
One time, I was sent to San Carlos, Pangasinan where we were doing a research on Social Pension for seniors. I asked my Toni to accompany me and we took a night trip on the bus, so we can start early with the interviews. Arriving close to midnight, we asked the tricycle driver to find us a 24-hour lodging house where we could sleep for the night and take a shower before the next day’s activities. The man took us to a nearby motel which was relatively cheap, but looked like it had seen better days. A small window near the bathroom which looks out unto a vacant lot outside kept giving me the creeps. My eyes kept drifting to that window as if someone outside was looking in from the darkness because there was a big tree right beside it. I was glad we only stayed for one night and left right after our interviews on another night trip.
In 2015, I returned to Davao for another round of lectures on senior citizens’ rights and privileges. Having tried out almost all the big hotels in the city proper, I was very happy that we were billeted away from the hustle and bustle of the city, at the posh Waterfront Insular, a once-popular hotel in its heyday. I was informed that new owners renovated and refurbished most of the facility, but some of the old accommodations remain. We were offered a suite-size room in the old wing, but just walking along its corridors felt weird. There was something “off” the minute you climb the stairs and turn the corner into that old hallway. It felt like “forever” walking that space to one’s room, as if that corridor “lengthens” with each step you make. So after checking it out, I declined the room and asked to remain in the original lodgings assigned to me.
But my worst experience was at the medium-range, Days Hotel in Tagaytay after an office training activity. Our rooms were fortunately triple-sharing, but located at a lower level near the doors leading to the pool and garden area. This place was admittedly “old” by our standards since it has been around for quite some time. But because of its rates, we figured it still gets a fair amount of business every so often. I felt strange passing by the side doors when I wanted to go see the gardens, and one of my roommates complained something seemed to brush pass her one night. My other roommate fell sick before me, but just as we were preparing to leave and packing our stuff, I began to feel sick and weak. I was stricken down by a slight fever and a bum tummy. I felt so crummy the whole trip back to Manila and then I remembered that the night before, as I went to the bathroom to pee, I felt a gust of wind seem to rush at me. 


Museums
I usually make the most of my official trips, and as soon as my business is done, I try to take in the sites as well. I go around seeing the tourist spots and museums, and most of these old, historical places from before or during World War II.
Now, I know my previous experiences in Baguio were mine alone. But recently, during one of our visits to Camp John Hay, I was with my wifey and little girl. We went inside the Bell House, the former residence of the commanding general of the American Forces in the Philippines during the early part of the century. As we went around the museum, I noticed some parts felt “colder” than usual. Granting the front doors were open and the air outside was indeed chilly, I wondered why the living room area which was nearer the doors weren’t as cold as the inner bedrooms. I didn’t know that when my Wifey was herself checking out each of the rooms, she felt as if someone was behind her. She later said, she thought that it was me all the while, following her around, but I was at the fireplace near the dining room all that time.
This happened again when we were in Vigan a few years ago. No matter how many times I have gone around Ilocos in my youth, I make it a point to visit familiar places and show them around to first-timers like my Toni. It was late in the afternoon when we arrived in Vigan after a round of senior citizens-related media interviews in Ilocos Norte. We tried to catch the last open hours of the museums and last on our rounds was the Crisologo Museum. It was late and the regular tour guide, a distant relative of the family, wouldn’t accompany us upstairs anymore. She said to just go on ourselves since she knew it wasn’t my first time. As usual, after a few joint photos, Wifey and I started to go on separate Photo-Ops for selfies. Suddenly, Toni wanted to leave immediately, so we left even if the museum was still open for a few more minutes. She said she felt like someone was staring at her, following her around. I didn’t tell her that time felt different since we were alone and it was nearing twilight. Unlike my previous visits, it felt kind of eerie to me, as if someone was urging us to leave already because it was nearing dark.
Years before, I had a stranger experience at another Vigan museum – the Burgos ancestral home, the original government-operated museum of Vigan and probably the oldest. Once more, I wasn’t going around alone, I was with a group of family and friends. Unfortunately, it was again late in the afternoon because it was cooler to be walking around in the summer weather. We were scattered, busy looking around, each of us taking photos. There was an open, veranda-like area at the side and from the corner of my eye I noticed a man sitting out there, smoking. He was in one those white or light-colored, pajama-like suits of yore, sitting with his cane in front of him as he smoked what looked like a cigar. All that wispy-white, smoky image merging in one scene before I turned to look directly at him and he wasn’t there anymore!
Recently, we went to see Tayabas which was on my bucketlist ever since because I wanted to see its ancient basilica and an old Spanish period bridge. I heard they transformed their old municipal building into a museum called Casa Comunidado and I remembered that this was already featured on GMA-7s “Misteryo”. I decided that this shouldn’t be scary because it was the middle of the day and there were government employees still working inside around that time. When we asked where the nearest restroom was, the guard kidded us to be careful of the “black lady”. While the CR was a bit creepy, it wasn’t as eerie as the old wooden staircase at the back. That part was not open yet since they were still renovating and refurbishing the space. As Toni and I took our photos, I wasn’t sure if the shadows there really were just a play of the lights.
But the scariest experience Wifey and I had was at Balay Negrense in Silay City. We just squeezed in a quick tour of the famous city of Silay for its famous ancestral houses. We covered most of them already when we were told at our last house that we shouldn’t miss Balay Negrense, so off we went. As we arrived at its gate, I knew it was worth the visit even if it was already late afternoon and we were going to catch an evening flight for Manila. The few guests were already leaving as we entered, but the tour guides seem to be prodding each other which of them should take us around. From the grand staircase, to the large rooms, and its opulent furnishings which we were informed were already greatly depleted from clan quarrels, we were clearly awed by the place. It truly captured the era when sugar was king and these rich families of the South lived like royalty of Europe. But as we headed to the back, where the servants quarters were and where the old carriages, bicycles or motorcycles were stored in an “extended” garage area, the lights began to flicker and the guides blurted out, “hayan na sila..” Exiting through a side door to the gardens, I noticed a large rubber tree facing two of the second floor bedrooms. Already appearing creepy, that tree particularly bothered me because it felt like something was actually living there.  

Old Churches and Cemeteries                                                                      
They say churches and hospitals are much scarier than cemeteries because that’s where the ghosts actually are. And as much as I loved going to see old churches, rarely did I feel anything weird in them. Except for that remaining bell tower of Taal basilica aka St. Martin de Tours, which my sister and I should never really have tried to climb in the first place, I haven’t felt anything strange in known “haunted” churches like Tuguegarao aka Sts. Peter and Paul Cathedral. On the other hand, I would not know about old church ruins like the one in San Pablo in Isabela or Pindangan Ruins in San Fernando, La Union. And even if they were probably known to have ghost sightings in the past, I didn’t feel anything during my visits. Since the local parishes have decided to build new chapels or churches nearby to be used regularly, any dark forces would probably have been “exorcised” already.
Meanwhile, in old churches like that in Pan-Ay in Capiz, or Sta. Maria, Ilocos Sur, it’s their old, forgotten Spanish period cemeteries at the back, which are rumored to be “haunted”. Old folks in Capiz claim that even after the Spanish friars had people buried there, both Americans and Japanese soldiers used those areas as dumping grounds for dead bodies, with or without religious ceremony, which probably explains the “restless” souls.
However, my personal experience at Paco Park and Cemetery was of a different variety though. Coming from one of my weekend lectures in the Manila area, we passed by the historical site and I convinced my driver to stop for a while. It was nearing high noon, bright and sunny and all, but with few visitors since masses were held every Sunday. I was going around, and I decided to go up the stairs to the elevated portion rarely frequented by visitors except probably for lovers wanting some privacy. This walkway goes around the complex and always ends by the chapel itself. I was almost completely the whole way around already when I heard footsteps behind me. I thought these were just echoes of my own shoes on the cobblestones but echoes are impossible in an open air area like this where even the noise of passing vehicles outside could disrupt any sounds. I knew the guards and gardeners were at their respective posts, and I didn’t see any other visitors climb up with me. Then I suddenly felt the hairs on my arms and nape rise, and my back felt so cold under the heat of the midday sun. I hurried down from there and found my driver so we could leave. 


Lighthouses
Of course, part of Cape Bojeador’s popularity is its notoriety as the “haunted” lighthouse of Ilocos Norte. There have been many stories from locals and visitors alike, so it’s no wonder people still flock to see it. But of the few times I visited, I can honestly say that there is that particular inner room in the main building which feels strange to me. Whether it was dark and unopened, or when it was already well-lighted and refurbished as a museum, there is just something “unnerving” about it.
Cape Engano in Palaui Island, Sta.Ana, in Cagayan is of different category because while more and more people visit it, no one regularly stays there to maintain it unlike Cape Bojeador. When we visited it a few years ago, I was with wifey, my little girl, my sister and her boyfriend, our driver and our guides. I avoided the tower leading to the lighthouse itself because the darkness there seemed too spooky for me.
I didn’t feel anything at Cape Bolinao in Pangasinan because it is well-maintained and quite modernized already, although Cape Santiago in Calatagan looked sinister from outside the gates even. However, it is actually Malabrigo in Lobo, Batangas which is haunted by a “crying lady” or so they say. Again, this has been featured on GMA-7s “Misteryo” show. But this is still on my bucketlist though..
So there, that’s my list of haunted places which I had never really sought for their reputed “ghostly sightings”, but had the misfortune of having an “experience” as a visiting tourist. So much for “Dark Tourism” eh?





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