When people talk about Northern Luzon, it is always the Ilocos region they begin referring to. But long before Vigan became the seat of the Archdiocese of Nueva Segovia, and hence, the center of Spanish control and government in northern Philippines, Cagayan Valley held the claim to that honor.
Region 2 is composed of provinces like Cagayan Valley, Isabela, and Nueva Vizcaya. Located on the country’s eastern seaboard, it is constantly battered by typhoons like the provinces in Bicol and the Samar-Leyte area. Although primary producers of rice, vegetables and cattle meat, their agricultural produce is subject to the whims and caprices of the weather, thus making life difficult for its inhabitants. Poverty incidence is therefore understandable, which in turn led to issues of peace and order, and the presence of rebels and militants against the government.
But owing to the legacy of its Spanish colonizers, there is much to see and discover in Cagayan. While land trips take an arduous 11-12 hours by bus, there are now direct flights from Manila via Air Philippines or PAL. Since the airport in Tuguegarao is quite simple and under-developed, only small aircrafts can land there. Unfortunately, these small planes seem like dragonflies buffeted by strong winds during typhoon season. Once or twice, flights can be diverted back to Manila because turbulence and thick clouds prevent the planes from landing safely.
Tuguegarao City itself is still rustic despite being the regional center for government line agencies. Business establishments cater to the most basic needs of people, with not much venues for “nightlife”. In fact, at around 7:30PM, the streets are almost deserted. Yet there is a unique charm to its simplicity and laid-back atmosphere, as if time really does slow down in this place.
Although the most popular tourist attractions are actually outside Tuguegarao, before one starts site-seeing other churches, the St. Peter and Paul Cathedral within the city should be your first stop. Then, enjoy a calesa ride in their own version of a local horse-drawn carriage, and know that this is one of the few remaining places that still have these as regular transport. Also take a tricycle ride around the city, and although motorbike-run vehicles like these abound in other places of the Philippines, notice that each province has a distinct take on these contraptions by design, much like the Thai tuktuk and Indonesian bedyak.
A must-see are the Callao Caves in Penablanca which actually houses seven (yes, count them) caverns, including one that has an opening overhead and lets in sunlight during the day, and bats, after a night of foraging for food. It also opens to a large space that has been modified to become an indoor chapel within the caves. To get to the cave, however, one must brave and hurdle the one hundred or so steps to its entrance. But once you face the majestic gap, that yawning mouth in the mountain, you will realize the climb was truly worth it.
Just beside the Callao Caves is the great Mororan River. Riverboat rides are available to sightseers who may get a chance to traverse this major tributary that waters most of the province’s farmlands. There are some areas which make for some “shooting the rapids” excitement, but this river-rafting experience can be quite calming as you cut across mountain sides covered with lush forest vegetation. Exotic birds still fly above, while assorted fish dart in between the rocks and boulders lining the river’s path.
Your next stop should be a visit to Our Lady of Piat. Fast gaining popularity as a pilgrimage site, it rivals Our Lady of Manaoag in Pangasinan and the Lady of Penafrancia in Naga City when it comes to visitors. An attraction here is the “black” Virgin Mary created in recognition of the indigenous tribe of the Itawis, one of the peoples native to the region, along with the Ibanags and Ilocanos. It is said that the image of the Virgin Mary in Piat was originally from Lallo, Cagayan where it miraculously saved hundreds of lives when the Cagayan River overflowed in the early 20th century.
In nearby Iguig, one of the Philippines’ oldest churches survives. The small parish of St. James still bears the remnants of the artistry of the Augustinian friars as seen from many of Ilocos’ churches. With some parts of it in original wood, it was ruined by a great earthquake during the last century. As such, at the back, even its landscape has somehow fallen a few meters below its original elevation.
But upon this rolling terrain was built the Calvary Hills, where gigantic models of Jesus and his apostles depict the fourteen Stations of the Cross. A variation of this, however, is the inclusion of a fifteenth and final sculpture of Christ’s resurrection. Unlike the life-size models found in Camiguin island, these are huge statues that can be seen across the field of grass, overlooking yet another tributary of the Cagayan River. This makes Cagayan a perfect Holy Week destination during summer.
Before heading home, make sure you also sample the local cuisine. Besides the traditional goat’s meat-based viands of the Ilocanos like papaitan, dinakdakan and imbaliktad, try also their beef longganisa that makes for a heavenly breakfast. They also have a local pansit composed of different noodles and a seeming “everything-on-it” combination of vegetables, chicken meat, fishballs and/or kikiam. Since garlic is also produced in this area, make sure you bring home fried garlic bits as pasalubong.
At several degrees away from the equator, Cagayan is also one of the hottest places in the country. If you’re visiting in the summer, make sure you keep hydrated and covered, because you can also get one of the worst sunburns there without even realizing it.
So for your next vacation, try a location that’s “off-the-beaten-track”, visit Cagayan Valley.
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