Changing Landscapes: Legendary La Union

When people wonder why I proudly declare myself as a “GI” or genuine Ilocana even as I already grew up in Metro Manila, they soon find out that it’s because my parents and grandparents from both sides of the family all hail from the North. While I can understand the language and still speak a few bits and pieces of Ilocano, I only got to spend a few weeks of each year in the region when I was growing up. But one of the highlights of our summers then was the annual trek to the beach and this had to be in La Union. With its long coastline, gently sloping into the sea and its soft, gray sands, it was the perfect beach destination before heading for Baguio to cool off. Though I agonized about the long drives before, now I remember them with fondness as I keep returning every now and then and notice the big changes in the countryside. As one enters the province of La Union, you come upon a fork in the road that is the town of Rosario. This is where a right turn means you’re heading to Baguio through the Pugo-Tuba route, and a left turn means you’re heading towards Ilocos through the coastal towns of La Union. At this junction, there used to be a rest-stop, restaurant cum mini-museum. This circular structure with wide, open windows that let the cool air in especially in the summer, used to house Ilocano artifacts and traditional tools and implements that proudly introduced our Ilocano heritage. Now, all that stands is an old, dilapidated building that serves as an unintentional playground for kids, or a temporary shelter for transients, but not even used by the local government as a security outpost. I remember Rosario for its treehouse I use to climb in my youth. Today, several other La Union towns sport treehouses of their own like Agoo and Balaoan, what with their big acacia trees still standing and perfectly preserved. Through Sto. Tomas, Aringay, Bacnotan, San Juan, Agoo, Bauang and San Fernando, we could catch an occasional glimpse of the South China Sea. When I was a kid, squeals of delight would erupt in the car from my sisters and I as we intermittently get a view of the inviting blue sea. “Malapit na, malapit na tayo sa beach!” my Mom and Dad would promise us, so that we’d quiet down a bit. Nowadays, it’s quite difficult to catch even a glimpse of the beach. Too many commercial establishments have been built by the roadside thus covering one’s view as you drive by. My family is related to the Aquinos, Borjas and Gaerlans of San Juan, and we used to stay at the family beach resort, named after Lolo Mariano and Lola Pilar in Bauang, La Union. I remember MARPIL’s cottages would sometimes be occupied by uncles, aunties, and cousins but a few doors would still be rented out to vacationing foreigners. While fathers, uncles and lolos drank and had their favorite pulutan – kambing, and our mothers, aunties and lolas played mahjong at the resto-pavilion, us kids would frolic on the beach all day. For those who can remember, this same stretch of beach would be shared by neighboring resorts like Nalinac, Long Beach, and Cresta del Mar. But today, only Long Beach still exists. Since the big earthquake of 1990, the coastline seems to have moved and the long stretches of sand reaching out into the ocean have disappeared. No more areas for sunbathing or sandcastle building, or space to do an early morning jogs. Waves now lap constantly at the raised foundations of resorts, hotels and beachside restaurants. Receding tides sometimes offers a small stretch of sand, but more often than not, the sea has encroached upon the seaside spaces of my youth. During a visit to Long Beach a few years ago, I was shocked to find the seawaters so close to where we were eating. I could see and hear the evening waves crashing unto the rocks beneath the restaurant’s floorboards as if any minute the sea would just engulf us. In Bauang and San Fernando this is the reality: there is only the sea for the beach frontage itself are all gone. Meanwhile, the big, scary waves of Agoo and San Juan have become the main tourist attraction here. The same great, crashing waves which our parents warned us about and kept us from swimming in these areas are what surfing enthusiasts have come to conquer. Big business has boomed around this and surfers are now regular visitors, giving new life to the resorts and hotel industry here. Surf shops, restaurants and coffee bars have likewise emerged in the recent years. In La Union, like the rest of the Ilocos region, the old churches are a must-see. As kids, we used to hear mass either at the St. William’s Cathedral of San Fernando or the Basilica of Agoo. The latter was built during the time of Tourism Secretary Aspiras, a known Marcos crony. It got so controversial because of the church mural which included the face of Imelda and Ferdinand Marcos as well as the Aspiras couple. Nearby, across the road, there used to be a museum of sorts where proud Ilocano traditions and culture were displayed. There were religious artifacts dating back to the Spanish colonizers, some old books and documents from the American Period, and World War II memorabilia from the Japanese Occupation. Today the building is part of the local government center, and underneath stands the Senior Citizens Center. While many people flock over to Manaoag in Pangasinan, Piat in Cagayan Valley and Penafrancia in Naga City as popular pilgrimage sites, few know about Our Lady of Namacpacan in La Union. Legend has it that during a time of great drought and famine descended on La Union, an image of the Virgin Mary came to feed the starving people, hence the name “namacpacan” - which means to feed. A church was built in her honor and the spring underneath the church is said to produce miraculous healing waters. And to get so-called nourishing liquid is free, but people must bring their own bottles and containers to get some.

Ilocos 2014: A Lesson in History, Culture and Cuisine

Every year, I manage to visit my parents’ hometowns in the Ilocos region. Fortunate enough to time it with official travels, but without the privilege of a private vehicle, I am compelled to take the long bus ride consisting of at least 7 hours on the road. As in my youth, the road trip is part geography lesson, history and culture, and even a bit of a foodfest. I remember when my parents then would try to entertain us with everything they could think of – naps, food, folklore, stories from their own childhood. My Dad would speak of the old railroad that took him and his family to La Union during the evacuation from Manila in the early 1940s, the swamps in the Candaba area where he hid with fellow guerillas as they survived on Bulacan’s watermelons. It was during that time he contracted malaria and became a non-viable blood donor since. From Pampanga to Capas, Tarlac, he would point out some markers commemorating the infamous Death March. He had these horror stories of a big, black sow wearing wooden clogs, which blocked their bus during a night trip he took to Pangasinan when he was already in college, and this big tree by a mysterious bridge where many vehicular accidents happen. Through it all, we unconsciously learned about the geography of Northern Luzon and even a bit of Philippine history without realizing it. I found out why some parts of Pampanga and Bulacan flood so easily during the rainy season and why there are so many migratory birds flocking to its rice fields at certain times of the year. Nowadays, not many people realize that this area is part of the great marshlands of Candaba. I understood why vast tracks of Tarlac are planted to sugarcane and the Ilocos region is confined mostly to cultivating tobacco. I also came to know that before Dagupan boomed into the provincial capital that it is now, before World War II, it was merely composed of marshes and numerous fishponds locals took their livelihood from. And so I remember all that until now whenever I travel North. And I try to share that information with Toni since she’s from the eastern side of Northern Luzon. All she knows is the route from Bulacan to Nueva Ecija to Nueva Vizcaya to Isabela and then it’s already Cagayan Valley. In late 2013, I literally took a tour of Ilocandia – four provinces in four days. While I had taken Toni to La Union and Baguio in 2012, it was such a whirlwind trip that it didn’t leave much of an impression on her. I always promised her we’d do it right the next time. And the complete travel experience to Ilocos includes partaking of the local cuisine wherever you can find it. And yes, Virginia (tobacco), there is more to Ilocos than our longganisa. Although not much of an eater, I indulged Toni the usual travel fare on buses. Vendors climb aboard our bus offering sweet corn, pork chicharon, and gua(va)apple. From Dau, Pampanga to Tarlac City, assorted sweet treats such as pastillas and macapuno balls abound. I used to say you just know what part of Ilocandia you’re in already by the kakanins being sold. Somewhere in the Ilocano portions of Tarlac and Pangasinan, one gets offered tupig. Known for its wrapping of elongated strips of banana leaves, it’s actually made from rice flour (malagkit), grated coconut, coconut milk and brown sugar roasted over a fire. On occasion, I encountered “special” versions of this grilled delight with peanut crumbs or sesame seeds for added flavor. Being the probinsyana that she is, Toni recognizes most of the ingredients even before I realize it. In Ilocos Sur, the favorite is the gelatinous kalamay made from malagkit rice, coconut milk and that dark brown sugar in blocks known as panucha. Sweet and viscuous, it is similar to the popular tikoy of the Chinese. Oftentimes, it is contained in the bao or halved coconut shells much like the binagol of region 8. After my radio guesting in DZTP Radio Tirad Pass in Candon City, we were gifted by no less than their Mayor Singson with their famous Candon Calamay. Meanwhile, in Ilocos Norte, the tinubong is the kakanin of choice. Made from the same ingredients as the tupig, the main difference is that the malagkit, coconut milk, molasses, and grated coconut mixture is stuffed in bamboo tubes before being grilled over hot charcoals. To get to the tasty stuff inside, one must learn the trick of cracking open the bamboo tubes by hitting it against the ground or against a wall. Finally, how can anyone forget our legendary bibingka. Sticky and gelatinous like kalamay, it is now prepared with cheese grated over it. The “royal” version is extra soft and sticky that it actually melts in your mouth. From my travels to nearby Asian countries, I observed that our kakanins is a cousin to many Indonesian and Malaysian fares of similar concoctions. I am not sure if it was just a matter of culture and common heritage, or the abundance and availability of the ingredients, but one thing for sure, this type of food is both filling and satisfying as an “energy” booster for all the hard work required under the hot Asian sun. The secret also to enjoying the traditional cuisine of any locality is knowing exactly where to find it. (Remember that Dutch couple who toured the Philippines and complained about our food? Well, who would be stupid enough to ask for Vigan longganisa at a 7-11 store?!) Any Vigan Heritage Tourist who did his/her background homework would know enough that the “plaza” is the place to be. While in the olden days the plaza held some political and religious significance to be the center of any township with its proximity to the parish church and the town hall, nowadays it maintains its reputation as the “it/eat” place. And, it isn’t just about the “where”, but the “when”. Depending on what you want to eat, you also have to carefully “time” your gastronomic experience. Arriving at dawn in Ilocos Sur, Toni didn’t want to lose any time at all and wanted to partake of the traditional Ilocano breakfast. So this early, while the plaza is already hustling and bustling, the morning offering is the “singalaw”. Appearing like the classic pinapaitan, this beef-based broth is served hot with cattle innards but without the bitterness. Instead, it is seasoned profusely with Sukang Iloko. For the faint of heart and un-adventurous palate, there is Jollibee, Chow King, and a few other fast food restaurants if you want to stay with your familiar comfort foods. Otherwise, go for the other Ilocano breakfast of Vigan longganisa and eggs with fried rice. Already in the midst of the Heritage Village, we decided to visit some of the famous churches and museums before heading home to rest. While doing the Vigan tour, one can’t miss the St. Paul Cathedral and the Salcedo Plaza in front of the Provincial Capitol. But it is essential that one visits at least one of Vigan’s three popular museums. The ancestral home of Fr. Jose Burgos of the famous GomBurZa (the 3 Filipino priests executed by the Spaniards and are now considered heroes) is the only one run by the government, and although a little dilapidated compared to the others, it still introduces one to the Ilocano culture and heritage. For young kids, this small venue would prove most interesting for its dioramas – miniature depictions of life in the Ilocos. From the mini Chinese junks (trading boats), one can learn just how much trading the merchants from mainland China (and probably Taiwan) did up and down the Northern Luzon coast. It also explains why the Chinese businessmen were so integrated in Vigan high society even before, and nowhere is this more exemplified than in the Syquia Mansion (and Quirino) museum. There is also a display showing how the famous churches were built from the blood and sweat of Filipinos under the polo (forced labor) system, an example of the tobacco industry activities straight from the plantations to the curing houses where the leaves are dried, and an artist’s take on the death of the young General Gregorio del Pilar at the Battle of Tirad Pass near Candon. Successfully evading the notorious Ilocos midday heat, we waited until afternoon to visit the other museums and tourist sites. By the time we finished, it was perfect merienda time and we headed for the Empanadaan, a corner of the Burgos plaza where the classic Ilocano emapanada is made. Fresh from the hand-rolled dough to the vegetable fillings, it is now served with ground meat or longganisa and eggs as a “special” version. Large vats of oil for deep fat frying are evidence that your food gets served hot and fresh off the stove. Toni was so pleased to find that these food stands also offer ukoy. And although I am avowedly averse to taking vinegar with my food, this is one of the few times I actually enjoy it. In fact, it is the sukang iloko and the lasuna (native mini-onions) which are crucial to enjoying the Ilocano empanada. My Toni loved it so much we kept coming back for the next three days. I noticed that there are now pork barbeques being sold alongside the empanadas. These grill places stay until early evening and the unusual yet tasty combination also makes for a great dinner fare. I am told that grilled food is such a favorite amongst tourists that the Ilocanos decided to also integrate it in their tourist attractions. We were quite fortunate to be joined by my Mom on this trip, so it was she who mentioned to Toni that another popular Ilocano fare is our miki. This noodle soup of sorts is chicken-based and colored with achuete. Once again, the uniqueness lies in the special home-made dough that looks like the slightly-flattened linguine pasta. At the new must-see place “Hidden Gardens”, we tried their own version of miki which was garnished with bagnet, another meat favorite from Ilocos. As we ate an early dinner, Mama likewise hints at another meat delicacy – the ladek, our so-called version of the sisig. Bits and pieces of cooked pork formed into meat patties, ladek is wrapped in banana leaves and can be frozen in storage until ready to be eaten by simply placing over freshly cooked rice like the Bicolano pangat. While touring the Vigan Heritage Village looking over the different stores’ wares, one already gets an idea what to bring back as souvenirs and pasalubongs The classic abel blankets are a favorite as well as the burnay, the unique clay pottery still being made in the North. Recently, the chichacorn of various flavors has also become a trademark Ilocano take-home. But true-to-form, Mama once again introduced Toni to a traditional Ilocano product - the basi wine from San Ildefonso. Carrying the brandname “Gongogong”, this bottled beverage made from fermented sugarcane juice is the alcohol of choice of Ilocanos since time immemorial, and was in fact the reason for the great Basi revolt in Philippine history. Today, it has found a resurgence as a favorite pasalubong item and because of its export quality, many Ilocano emigrants and overseas workers bring these as souvenirs for friends and compatriots. And even when we’re already originally from Ilocos, we can’t help but bring back most of these goods on our annual visits as if we’re also tourists experiencing Ilocandia for the first time. For me, I find that the ever changing landscape of Ilocandia makes me see it with new eyes everytime. Besides, watching my beloved Toni enjoy the trip not only brings back my childhood, but allows me to have new memories to cherish as well.

Beginnings and Endings: My 2013

I usually do a recap of my last twelve months at the start of every year. I do it to psychologically “close” the past and look forward to the next few months. It gives me an idea of how much I accomplished for the year, and often, various trips and travels are part of its highlights. With 2011 and 2012 being so hectic, I did not expect my 2013 to be any different. I was prepared to embark on numerous travels and official trips as is my wont. However, I did not expect it to start so soon as in January. Due to some leftover work before the year ended, and of some upcoming travels I was anticipating, I had to begin travelling by second or third week of the new year. Thus, I found myself contending with the Sinulog fever in Cebu which had me scrambling for accommodations and for plane seats on the few flights which weren’t fully booked already. While I was happy to experience this popular festival in honor of the Sto. Nino for the first time, I was quite wary of the big crowds. Besides the hotels, the restaurants and malls were all so full of people. Fortunately, my official business was taking me to the distant towns of Barili and Tuburan so I was able to leave the madness in the city. I have been to Cebu numerous times already and it has always been a favorite destination of mine. It is “urbanized” enough to have the usual comforts of city-life – the malls for quick shopping sprees, the familiar fastfood restaurants for the unadventurous palate, and yet, it was near enough to the beaches and other tourist spots one can easily escape to for an enjoyable vacation. This time though I was excited about discovering Cebu province’s other areas. Although I knew both Barili and Tuburan were poor municipalities, I have heard of Cebu’s natural resources as one of its greatest secrets. And so, just as I was fortunate enough to see the town of Loon’s mangrove monkeys park in Bohol, I was able to see Barili’s four “mini” waterfalls and hydro-power plant at Mantayupan, as well as its local church which is one of the oldest parishes established by the Spanish friars. On the way back, we passed by the city of Carcar, famous for its chicharon and ampao delicacies. Accidental tourist that I am, I stumbled upon another treasure – it’s old church of St. Catherine’s and it’s perfectly preserved and renovated dispensary-periculture facility. Once a local pharmacy and mini hospital for mothers and young children during the American Occupation, it has now been turned into a local museum with an impressive display on Cebuano cultural heritage. The next day, we headed out of Cebu City in the other direction for Tuburan. Traversing the mountainous side of the province, the scenery reminded me of Tagaytay -cool and foggy. Even the fruit stands by the roadside were reminiscent of the Sta-Rosa-Silang, Cavite route. Ironically, we chose this “shortcut” to quickly get to Tuburan which was actually a coastal town on the other side of the province. It faces Negros island and serves as a small port for travelers to and from Negros Occidental. Having finished with my official business interviewing social pensioners, I ventured into its small, fledgling museum in honor of its famous son, military General Arcadio Maxilom. At the mayor’s instructions, I was also taken to see their gigantic, centuries-old tree and the freshwater spring in Molo-Bolo which empties out into the sea. I remember that these few remaining research locations were the last to conduct our social pension interviews in. They got left to me because no one else wanted them and everybody else had finished with their assignments already. So by default, the choice was made for me when I got assigned Cebu City, Barili and Tuburan. Had I not accepted, I wouldn’t have had the opportunity to visit these amazing places. I understood then why we must be like the leaf sometimes – to blow with the wind and go wherever it takes us; because sometimes, when we suddenly wake up, we may find ourselves in a much better place. Before the month of January ended, I had my first out-of-the country trip which was LGBT rights-related. I was invited by the Dutch Foreign Ministry and COC Netherlands to speak at a special seminar they organized for embassy and consular representatives of European Union member countries. I was the only Filipino and only Asian there to give them an idea on how their investments and funding policies can help protect and promote the human rights of sexual minorities. I never imagined myself to be speaking before consular officers and embassy representatives of big European nations; conducting a lecture on an area of human rights that was so unpopular and unknown to some government officials and legal professionals. And so I did the only thing I knew how, something I do best - I spoke from the heart. It was a proud moment for me, but I never realized that all the SOGI rights advocacy work I was doing could have such an impact in the world, as months later the EU States accepted the European Commission designed LGBT rights “toolkit” into a full-blown, Gender and Development manual of sorts for use by European countries in their engagements with Third World nations. In the month of February, it was back to local travels for me as I did the last leg of social pension program interviews in Negros. Having finished with Bacolod in December, I now headed for Cadiz City. Although this was declared a “city”, records showed economic disparities in the area qualified some senior citizens as social pension beneficiaries because they were considered “indigent”. Amidst an ocean of sugarcane plantations, black pepper and prawn farms, Cadiz was also known for its succulent seafood. This fact failed to impress me, however, because of my food allergies. But as I headed back to Bacolod, I was able to meet up with some local LGBT friends and do a short talk for them on SOGI rights. This was quite significant because it was meant to inform them and assist in the anti-discrimination ordinance they were pushing for in the local council. It was also the last provincial lecture I would be doing for Rainbow Rights Project, that ground-breaking LGBT rights NGO I founded in 2005. While I promised to still do LGBT advocacy in my own way, I said goodbye to a “project” of mine that I never thought could influence LGBT rights advocacy in the Philippines - one that bridged the different LGBT groups across the country and truly empowered Pinoy LGBTs by educating them about their basic human rights, and familiarizing them with entitlements and protections under Philippine law. March found me taking advantage of my annual bonding time with my Mom and special leaves. As part of my continuing LGBT rights advocacy, I was called upon to go to Nepal for a regional conference on human rights and Sexual Orientation and Gender Identity. I was one of only a handful of representatives from South East Asia, and this time, I spoke about the unique strategies for engaging our national governments in the promotion and protection of LGBT rights. Looking back now, I never thought I could bring my advocacy work to such international levels. While I only sought to make things better for myself and fellow LGBTs in the Philippines, I didn’t think other countries would follow suit and take the cue from Filipino LGBT advocates. 2013 was also an election year, and our LGBT party, LADLAD made another bid for a congressional seat as a partylist representation. Honored as I was to again be elected as a nominee, I had to withdraw because of the new COMELEC ruling on government employees running for public office. My changing priorities in my personal life drove me to make this very difficult decision late in 2012 although I continued to “campaign” for LADLAD in my own way. Thankful as we are for the increasing support from other sectors and partylists, I still believed it was a great opportunity for any marginalized community to have its own voice in the legislature. If only the LGBT sector finally realizes this and manages to unite for a common goal like my beloved senior citizens, instead of “sabotaging” each other with such pettiness. The middle of 2013 found me slowing down, not even taking advantage of the Holy Week and summer months exodus to the provinces. Somehow, the Fates threw me a bone and I got the chance to finally see Roxas City in Capiz and Boracay in late May. Albeit I was working and on official business, it was still a treat for my 43rd birthday. Indeed, the white sand beaches and spectacular sunsets was quite a sight. But after having been to Patar beach in Bolinao, Pangasinan and Alona beach of Panglao island in Bohol, I was no longer that impressed. On vacations, I usually turn “anti-social”, and I especially despised the crowds in Boracay. The sheer number of people seemed to shatter the essence and idea of a holiday escape. Thus, the “lazy pace” and the reasonable prices of “tourist traps” in Roxas City and Pan-ay in Capiz held more appeal for me. In June, I went back to Tuguegarao with my partner, Toni and our little Venice. It was the first time in eleven months that she had been home to see most of her family members. I was there also to meet them officially and ask their permission before we had our commitment ceremony. A true daughter of Cagayan Valley, Toni toured me in the city, showed me some local haunts, and as I requested, went with me to visit Our Lady of Piat. I have cultivated a devotion for this pilgrimage site since I noticed it keeps on answering my prayers – and Toni was one such answered prayer. When I asked Apo Baket of Piat for a new love in 2012, I didn’t expect her to play favorites and gift me with her fellow Cagayana. The next few weeks passed by uneventfully until September when I finally got to visit our Field Offices for some technical assistance and monitoring for senior citizens concerns. The very efficient senior citizens Focal Persons for regions X, XI and V were resourceful enough to provide a venue and occasion for some RA 9994 updates. The other regions had to wait for another month or so to get some technical assistance. But once I began, it started to get hectic for me all over again. October started off with the whirlwind that was the annual Elderly Filipino Week celebrations. After a special forum for DSWD Central Office retirees and consultative conference on elderly concerns at PWU, DSWD-NCR had me giving the first RA9994 training for OSCA Heads of Metro Manila - a co-sponsored activity with Makati City. This was followed by a week-long appearance in Baguio City for DSWD-CAR and Field Office I whose senior citizens Focal Persons were fortunately able to coordinate their events with my schedule. This trip was extra special since I was travelling with my sister Giselle and it was Venice’s first time in Baguio. Reliving our childhood memories, we made sure Venice also enjoyed Baguio like we once did as kids. In between, I also did talks for government offices like the Bureau of Customs and some LGUs like Muntinlupa City. Meanwhile, November was coming up and I always had to work on Toni’s birthday. So this time, I managed to time it with an official visit to Field Office II. While I did my lectures, she at least had time to visit her grandmothers and other cousins. I guess it sort of made up for the past two years, but this is really no surprise since I do official DSWD work even on MY birthday. Upon our return, I dashed off to a few more regions – namely, Davao, CARAGA and region III. Like Cebu and Cagayan de Oro, Davao City is another one of my favorite destinations. "Citi-fied” enough yet the usual tourist spots just within your grasp for some rest and relaxation. It was also a delight to travel to CDO and Davao because I had some local LGBT friends I liked to reconnect with every so often. That November, I also got the chance to do another first – see Butuan City for the first time. Before year ended, I was able to squeeze in quick visits to the Ilocos region, Cagayan de Oro, Legaspi City in Albay, and Dipolog City in region IX. Those first few days of December was a tour of all four provinces of Ilocandia – Pangasinan, La Union and Ilocos Sur and Ilocos Norte. What made it tolerable was that I was able to meet up with my Mom in Vigan and Toni finally got to see my hometown for a change. Somehow on official trips like these, my fatigue quickly diminishes when I begin enjoying myself in the company of loved ones. My fourth “firsts” for the year was finally reaching Zamboanga del Norte and seeing Dipolog and Dapitan. While the area is famous for its seafood as well, what I truly cherished was experiencing Rizal’s Dapitan as he lovingly wrote about it. Dakak resort was also a sight for sore eyes and really impressed me. With the Christmas travel rush slowly bearing down, I noticed the airport become more crowded and frenetic than usual. Utterly exhausted, I refused to do any more travelling and made my Bicol run the last for the 2013. While I caught part of its local food festival, I was in too much of a hurry to get back to Manila already to begin my own holiday preparations. 2013 was year for “ending” some relationships and beginning better partnerships. It also meant being confident enough to strike out on my own, being patient and relying on my own abilities. Some people tested my mettle and showed me who I really was. Some friends also showed me the value of their friendships and I realized the importance of spending time with family and loved ones. 2013 taught me what a Life is truly made of – and those are each and every significant little moments that comprise our everyday.

The Secrets of Loon

As part of my official work in late 2012, we headed for the town of Loon, a poor town whose senior citizens were beneficiaries of the social pension program. We were granted another view of the Bohol countryside - the rivers and the churches, but most of all, the people of the province going about their simple and cheerful ways. Inspite of their status as a third or fourth class municipality, Loon had an impressive senior citizens center that was fully functional. It had rooms and offices for the Office for Senior Citizens Affairs (OSCA) Head, their local nutritionist and Persons with Disabilities (PWD) focal person, as well as facilities for meetings and assemblies. I was told it is a DSWD-accredited, awarded-winning facility. Very near it is their famous church, as proud and majestic as its sisters in Baclayon and Loboc. Though much younger, the church of Our Lady of the Light, held as much significance religiously as well historically. Established in the 1700s, the original structure burned down before being restored in the 1800s. Like many churches in Bohol, it was built by the Jesuits before being turned over to the Augustinian Recollects. It was also used by Americans as a garrison against the Filipino guerillas. Only in 2010 was it declared a national historical site. A long crack ran across the left-side façade of Loon church also known as Our Lady of the Light parish. The local social welfare aide who accompanied us said it was from the last big earthquake they had in the 1990s. But what makes Loon special are the stone steps at the back of the church. Stretching straight from the sea and passing the town proper up to the church itself, this infrastructure was used extensively by the Spaniards during the height of the galleon trade. The only other stairs like these that I know of are the ruins I saw at the St. James church in Iguig, Cagayan Valley. Any foto-ops on these stairs are reminiscent of Intramuros and its historic remnants, and I strongly recommend the site for pre-nups. Upon the mayor’s suggestion, we were also taken to Loon’s nature park- a mangrove reserve which features the rare sea-going Macaque monkeys. I have seen many mangrove parks before, from Lanao, Negros, Mindoro, to Palawan and Capiz, but all I saw between the receding waters and ebbing tides were the stranded fish and crabs, darting in and out of holes in the sand. And as for the monkeys, besides the zoo, the only other place I saw monkeys walking around in relative freedom were in Subic. But in Loon, there are monkeys that actually go down to the waters to hunt for small crabs, shrimps, and seashells. It is amazing to see these Macaque monkeys - unafraid of the seawater, cracking open seashells and eating fresh seafood. I once saw a feature on this National Geographic on TV, but seeing it first-hand was a real treat. Less than a year later, the great earthquake of Bohol would occur. Many of the historic churches would crumble and be heavily damaged. While majority of Loboc church collapsed, some parts of it survived. Loon’s Our Lady of the Light was not as lucky and it was destroyed completely. Nothing of the church remained, not its walls, its façade or its foundations. The cultural treasure of Bohol since 2010 was totally flattened. Even the stone steps behind the church were also damaged. Cracked in many parts, it could not survive the same temblor that left gaping sinkholes and sinking coastal barangays in different areas of the province. The province of Bohol was known for many years as an NPA rebel stronghold. But even during Spanish times, it served as a haven for Filipino revolutionaries, partly due to its natural mountain and forest covers. What Bohol could not escape is the possibly the poverty or the low economic status of its people. Their version of eco-tourism was suppose to generate the necessary income for the province and as the favourite tourist and vacation spot it has become, it was doing just that. It was unfortunate that the earthquake damaged so much infrastructure – roads and bridges, and even the old churches that were its pride and joy. But if there’s anything that will help them get back on their feet, it’s the spirituality and hope Boholanos always had. Their simple living and perseverance, and their continuing faith, will help restore what they once had. Now if only the government also does its job and step in where necessary..

Remembering Bohol as it Was (Before the Quake)

I was fortunate that right before the big quake, I was able to bring my current partner, Toni to see Bohol sometime in November 2012. This time I took a different route; flying directly to Tagbilaran, I engaged Rod’s services once again and made sure we got to go around all the important sites. We opted for lodgings within the city where there are now numerous fastfood restaurants to choose from to cut our travel expenses. Since I actually had official work to do the next two days, we had to schedule our tour as soon as we arrived. It was Toni’s first time in Bohol and she had always wondered about the beautiful churches I was telling her about. Since we both believed in making three wishes whenever one visits churches for the first time, we headed straight for Baclayon Church. Unlike before, strict dress codes have now been imposed to visitors. And since we were both in shorts, Toni was compelled to borrow a sari of sorts from the manangs to cover her legs before entering the church. I was allowed my short pants since mine were below-the-knee board shorts. Proper church decorum was now required – tourists may still take pictures inside but a few meters away from the altar; too much giggling or talking aloud is prohibited, and visitors are encouraged to say a short prayer instead. We still got to see the Baclayon museum and its old religious artifacts dating as far back as the 1600s, but the statuettes seemed fewer now. What are attracting tourists now are the three images that seemed to appear on the outside walls of the church itself – a side view of Padre Pio who has a full-size statue inside, a figure of Mother Mary and the child Jesus, and a frontview of an adult, soon-to-be-crucified Jesus. Signs like these were normally considered as warnings by religious Filipinos, and visitors and Boholanos alike thought something really bad was going to happen soon. Looking back now, could these have been signs for the big earthquake that would devastate the island province of Bohol? At Loboc Church, we were not allowed in for some reason that it was closed. We also didn’t get to see its museum or hear the Loboc Chidren’s Choir practice. Of course, I have to explain to Toni why the belltower was so far from the church proper, and why there is a ghastly unfinished bridge ruining the skyline. After all these years, no one has thought of simply removing that eyesore. Maybe they want it as a reminder of how foolish some government officials can be. But now, as an afterthought, I was hoping that it should’ve been the one completely destroyed by the earthquake instead of the heavily damaged Loboc Church to save everyone the trouble. So after a few snapshots taken outside, we headed across the river to ride the famed riverboat cruise. The whole system of getting passengers now seem more orderly with fees being paid to the agents who arrange for which boat you will ride. The boats now seemed sturdier and safer, of about uniform size to accommodate a reasonable number of customers with no fear of capsizing due to overcrowding or overloading. I could now leisurely eat my buffet lunch while enjoying the on-board music, now also a standard entertainment provided on the cruise. In between, we pass by large rafts with locals doing their own version of musical entertainment complete with song-and-dance routines. The foreigners absolutely love this kind of attraction – what with the performers colourful costumes and obvious talent, this brings back the times when Filipinos were really proud of their cultural traditions and loved showing off for guests. I was told the groups are actually locals representing different barangays near the river. The attraction was both an incentive and a means of livelihood for the communities. Kudos then to the local officials who thought of this. To cap off a heavy meal, there is now the popular ice cream shop nearby where you can try unique ice cream flavors made from products of the Bohol Bee Farm. Though a visit to the Bohol Bee Farm is now one the recommended tours, one can have a taste of its products just as you get off the boat. Popular fruits ranging from coconut, mango, and pineapple, to exotic avocado, ube and pandan, were combined with our truly Filipino flavors of cheese, mantikado, and halo-halo, all utilizing the locally-made honey as natural sweetener. Another highlight of Loboc is its newly-established adventure park. The still unfinished facility is already being visited in droves by tourists who want some physical excitement. While its zipline is nowhere near as long as Dahilayan’s in Bukidnon, or as deep as the one in Lake Sebu, it’s short run still gives one an amazing view of the Loboc river, its mini waterfalls, and its outlet to the sea. We were told that over those same forests and hills, are the natural habitat of the mini-marsupials, the very cute tarsiers of Bohol. We then proceeded to the other usual tourist “haunts” – the Bilar man-made forest and the Chocolate Hills. Toni found these nature treasures of Bohol quite fascinating. We risked causing heavy traffic in Bilar just so we could take picturesque shots of the trees. At Carmen, being much younger and limber than I am, Toni effortlessly climbed the steps. I never knew then that those pictures of her at the viewing deck, beside the bell or the wishing well, would preserve for posterity our memories of Bohol; because less than a year later, the earthquake would damage this overlook site to an almost unrecognizable state. On the way back, we dropped by another latest spot on the tourist rounds – the so-called “ShipHaus”. Seen from the highway itself, this residence of a longtime boat captain was constructed to look like the exterior and interior of a ship. The balcony was designed to look like the bow, an anchor dangling from its side down to the garden below. Inside, rooms are furnished like cabins, with the grandest being the captain’s quarters. However, this attraction is more fun for kids rather than for adults who have been on-board actual boats and ships. Being the probinsyana that she is, Toni has a true affinity for “wide, open spaces” like me and quite a penchant for various flora and fauna. So it was imperative that she gets to see the tarsiers and meet Prony, the famous python of Bohol. At the Tarsier Conservation site, Toni again had the advantage of being physically fit. Constructed over the hills and its usual vegetation, tarsiers are now more comfortable and less stressed. No direct contact means no petting or close-up fotos; there is no longer insect-feeding unlike before. Photography with flash is still prohibited. But tarsiers here are now more numerous; they are of different ages and are now coded and named. This still gives one a more “personal” connection with them. The briefing at the start of the tour, complete with flyers and a short video, is also quite helpful; it is more “professionalized” such that visitors are compelled to “behave”. Being nocturnal animals, tarsiers sleep during the day when most tourists come to visit, and the noise with all the excitement bothers these poor creatures, not to mention people’s insistence on touching the animals. Upon visiting Prony, who was bigger than ever, I also noticed that the entire enclosure has been expanded. There is now more space for moving around and animals’ cages are better arranged. There are more local birds on display, including chickens and ducks, that an entire aviary of its own can now be made. Lesser known Philippine wildlife can now be seen and I bet to the delight of kids; there are iguanas and monitor lizards, local civet cats we call “alamid” and “musang”. Yet Prony and her caretaker “tranny” are still the “superstars” here. Marimar is an all-out transgender now, who sometimes dons a bikini made from Prony’s molted skin. I was also glad to have visited Prony one last time, because a few months before the big quake, Prony would follow Lolong, the giant crocodile of Agusan, who died earlier in the year. For Toni and me, that Bohol trip was like a bridge between the past and present. I desperately wanted her to see the beauty of Bohol as I had known it and I am glad she got to see most of its treasurers before the earthquake. Taking Toni along on my travels was both an opportunity for us to get to know each other deeper, and to discover new places and experience new things together as we made our own memories.

Bohol's Churches and Museums

Bohol’s Churches and Museums The next time I visited Bohol, it was with some senior citizens because of my official work with DSWD. While we took in some of the usual tourist spots, we steered clear of the ones which required too much walking or climbing around. Thus, I discovered the other historic sites of Bohol worth visiting – its churches and museums. By the time I returned to Bohol with my family, I made sure my senior citizen Mom and my sisters also saw the old churches. Being from the Ilocos region, my family and I were reminded of our own Augustinian-designed churches in Ilocos Sur. It may sound stereotypical, but my Mom enjoyed looking at the churches so much we stayed quite a while. In fact, she noted that Bohol could be a perfect Holy Week get-away; the sheer number of churches and their accessibility would make the minimum 7-parishes Visita Iglesia quite easy.

Thus we discovered that Dauis church actually has a well-spring underneath its altar flooring and its waters are said to have healing powers. Baclayon church, on the other hand, has its own museum with quite a collection of ancient relics and artifacts. They date back to the time when statuettes of angels and saints had heads and hands of pure ivory, while priestly vestments were ornate and made of expensive material. A little known fact about Baclayon is that it actually has a dungeon where Boholanos deemed to be violating certain rules of the church were tortured once upon a time.

Meanwhile, Loboc church also has some of the old features of parishes then. Heavy wooden pews, confessionals, pulpits built high up on one of the pillars, plus a bamboo organ to accompany the choir in their Sunday singing. It is actually beside its museum area where the famous Loboc children’s choir practice. I noted some markers on a side wall of the church – two lines which indicate how high the flood waters reached when the Loboc river overflowed during two recent typhoons. Meanwhile, in Tagbilaran City is the St. Joseph the Worker church. Situated in the city proper, it is one of those originally established by the Jesuits in the 1700s before being turned over to the Recollects. From a church made from simple materials, it was expanded and reconstructed in the 1800s until additions like its convent and belltower were put up. Unfortunately, it does not have that “old world look or feel” to it anymore since much of its design is already quite modern, most especially its facade. Now referred to as Tagbilaran’s Cathedral, the only remaining ancient aspect to it is its location. Another heritage site that also lost its unique historical flavour is the ancestral home of former Philippine President Carlos P. Garcia. This little known museum was rarely visited by tourists who would rather explore Bohol’s natural treasures rather than travel down memory lane. Besides family heirlooms and Presidential memorabilia, the old Garcia home also displayed some strange archeological finds within the islands. I remember the Chinese porcelain and clay pottery presumably carried by traders on their Chinese junks, some heavy silver, religious relics and artifacts to parts of cannons loaded on Spanish galleons. There were a variety of seashells which can be found in the beaches of Bohol and the skeletal remains of some ancient Boholano who happens to be a prehistoric female. The great thing about coming back to Bohol is that each time there is always something new to do. At the Chocolates Hills, senior citizens who could no longer climb up to the viewing deck opted instead to have half-body massages offered by some enterprising locals at the waiting area-pavilion. At the tarsier enclosure, flies and other insects attached on long sticks were offered for “feeding” the cute marsupials. And Prony, the python, was now being introduced by its caretaker – a transgender nicknamed Marimar after the popular telenovela, who will even perform a song-and-dance number for additional donations. Because my sister desperately wanted to go dolphin-watching as well, we discovered an affordable beach resort along the famous white sand beaches in Panglao island. Dumaluan beach with its even even coastline and pristine waters was comparable to Alona beach and could give Boracay a run for its money. I would keep coming back to this place either for overnights or daytrips just to get a taste of Bohol’s picture-perfect beaches. In the next few years, I would be back in Bohol with colleagues, family members and new lovers. I would see many changes to Bohol as it transformed into the truly eco-tourism destination it aimed to be. The tarsiers would finally be moved to a conservation area with a bigger space and more like their natural forest habitat. Prony, the python now had a few other animal friends, species that are also endemic to Bohol like birds and lizards. The municipality of Loboc would now have its own zipline that will fly across a panoramic view of the river. There’s the Extreme Adventure Tour (EAT) in Danao town which features a zipline, a “plunge”, wall-climbing, rappelling, river-tubing and kayaking among others. And yes, as time passes, many things change. Bohol held many reminders for me, from successfully accomplished tasks, opportunities lost or taken advantaged of, loved ones who are no longer in my life. It would have been quite painful to have such reminiscings while visiting Bohol again. But I always believed that even with the same old places, what is important is that new memories should still be made – sort of “exorcising” the past. And so, I kept doing just that. I had always loved Bohol and it held too many good memories for me not to share its beauty with someone significant in my life.

The Beauty of Bohol Series: First Impressions, 2006

The Beauty of Bohol Series: First Impressions, 2006 After the big earthquake that devastated much of Bohol, I regretted not ever having written anything about this beautiful place. Maybe because it was one of my favourite hide-aways that I refused to divulge its secrets to others. But now, I am sad that I never spoke about the many reasons why people should visit Bohol at least once in their lifetime. They will never see it as I saw it then, as it was evolving as a prime tourist destination and must-see vacation spot. Bohol first captured my heart during a visit in 2006. I was still recovering from the end of a long-term relationship, and travelling was my only consolation. I did not know what the island had to offer in terms of tourism then, and I would’ve been happy to simply have an airconditioned room, with a bathtub, cable TV and room service during my entire stay there. But the rental car guy I contacted was too enterprising a businessman, that not only did he find me great and affordable hotel, he also doubled as a “tour guide” of sorts. And that was also the beginning of a lasting friendship with my “suki”, Rod. Over the years, I would keep recommending his services to both family and friends visiting Bohol. So there it is: one of Bohol’s great treasures is its wonderful people. First travel tip I learned in going to Bohol – you can double it with a side trip to Cebu. The plane fare is much cheaper to Cebu from Manila than going to Tagbilaran City directly. So take a day-tour or stay a few days in Cebu, before crossing over to Bohol via ferry boat from the port. One can have an itinerary much like a trip to Northern Mindanao’s Camiguin Island, where you can fly-in from Manila to Cagayan de Oro City, enjoy CDO’s sites or maybe drive over to Bukidnon for a day, before sailing off to have some beach fun at the island. And so it is that Bohol is famous for its nice beaches in Panglao island in particular. But for my first visit, I went to see its caves and hills, its various flora and fauna, just as its own kind of “eco-tourism” was being advertised then. Rod’s services includes airport or pier pick-ups, before dropping off your stuff at your lodgings. Travel tip No.2, if you aren’t there to enjoy the beach anyway and will just be spending most of your time checking out the different tourist spots all day, accommodations in Tagbilaran City proper area would suffice. There are a lot of bed and breakfasts, pension houses and motels you can choose from with clean, spacious and airconditioned rooms at a much cheaper price range. City-based hotels also abound and some of them have swimming pools which more than compensates for the lack of a beachfront view. Preliminaries over and done with, Rod whisked us off on a 7-spot tour right away. Our first stop was the Hinagdanan Cave in Dauis, Panglao Island. This underground tourist attraction boasts of a freshwater pool where people can take a quick dip. Be warned though that the stairs going down are quite steep and sometimes slippery. Hence, if you are with elderly companions or people afflicted with arthritic or weak knees, you can skip this tourist site. An underground cave, it has a few electric lights but having your own flashlight can still be useful if you wish to have a clearer view of its limestone stalactites and stalagmites.

Next up is the Blood Compact memorial which features life-size bronze statues depicting the historic meeting between the island’s chief, Datu Sikatuna and the Spaniard Miguel Lopez de Legaspi. Here they performed the ancient ritual of “sandugo” to forge peaceful and diplomatic ties. They say blood is drawn, not from the arm, but from the chest - just above the heart, and the blood is then collected and mixed with water or wine and equally divided to be drunk by the primary parties. Residents here believe the actual site of the blood compact is nearer one of the rivers, probably Loay, where Sikatuna and his party personally met Legaspi and his men. So this marker, for all its historic significance and appropriateness for photo-ops because of its great view, may not be that accurate after all. Next stop is Baclayon Church or what is actually the Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception parish. Admittedly one of the oldest churches in the Philippines, it was originally established in the 1500s and was used by the Jesuits. The Augustinians eventually took over and its reconstruction into the classic coralstone building is now their most valuable contribution. Like most churches, it was constructed utilizing forced labor of the locals. Boholanos were made to cut the coral straight from the sea and haul them inland to be mixed with eggs and molasses to bind them together. These carefully selected materials made for a strong structure that could endure the ravages of time. Till now, you can see corals and seashells imbedded in the limestone flooring near the façade of the church. Further on is another old church, Loboc’s the Church of San Pedro. This is where the Spanish friars moved their parish after realizing that Baclayon church’s location near the coastline exposed it to Moro marauders or pirates. The length of the Church of San Pedro spans a portion of the Loboc river and provides an awesome view of the waterway from the main road. However, the overflowing waters have flooded the church many times.

Near Loboc Church’s distant belltower, an unusual structure stands; an eye-sore of an unfinished bridge mars the landscape because of some government officials’ lack of respect for their Boholano heritage. Had the construction project pushed through, it would have entailed the demolition of one of their most popular parishes. By the river are boats that can be rented to give you a few minutes ride to the small waterfalls, or to the other end where the brackish water of the river meets the saltwater of the sea. The “Floating” Restaurant meals are “a-must” though, and most tourists take advantage of the midday break to enjoy the spot. Besides a relaxing boatride on the river and a buffet meal, there is likewise on-board singing to entertain you, so the reasonable fee they charge is well worth it. After taking in lunch at Loboc, we soon left to see the famous Chocolate Hills located in the distant town of Carmen. On the way, we passed by an area planted to numerous mahogany trees. A tree-planting project in the 1970s by the local Boy Scouts, it has now grown into a splendid forest known as the Man-made Forest of Bilar. Perfect for some outdoor picture-taking, it actually gives one a feeling of being in Europe or in North America. More than three decades since that seemingly irrelevant outdoor activity, the Bilar forest now seems a worthy natural investment. Still far from the actual look-out point of the Chocolate Hills, approaching the town of Carmen from the long winding road already gives one a glimpse of the curious mounds rising out of the plains. Several hills dot the landscape which in summer look like giant chocolates, but which in the rainy season appear verdant like avocado ice cream scoops. Travel tip No. 3, one must be physically fit or healthy enough for much of the walking and climbing to be done. Once again, one’s knees must be in tip-top shape to climb the hundred-or-so stairs to the look-out ridge. You can get about the same scenery at several rest-stops before the top if you’re not up to climbing all the way. The only difference is besides a “panoramic” view of the Chocolate Hills, there is also a bell and wishing well at the top which adds material to your photo album/scrapbook. On the way back, I told Rod I had to see Bohol’s unique marsupial, the tarsier. The Philippine Tarsier is such a rare animal and it is believed to be found only in the province of Bohol. Fortunately, the souvenir shop where we went also had a Tarsier Reserve of sorts. The cute creatures were no bigger than one’s hand and clung to tree branches, peacefully sleeping the day away. Once it gets dark, that’s when they move around and scavenge for their food in the forests. Since they are so sensitive, tourists can’t touch or pet them. We had to content ourselves with photos taken from our cellphones or cameras with flashes turned off. Since there was still some daylight left or because he likewise enjoyed touring me around, Rod took me to two other “tourist” spots worth visiting, but not really known to the other tour guides. The Hanging Bridge souvenir shop is where also the “buko-eating superman” lived. This middle-aged local man was already featured on Filipino television with his ability to crush open and shred a whole coconut with his bare teeth and hands only. For a small “donation”, he will show you his unique talent. A few kilometres away was also Prony, the over-sized pet of a Bohol resident. Caught from the wild as a young snake, this reticulated python grew so fast in size and was now a several inches thick and several meters long...unusual for its age. I was asking Rod so many questions about Bohol’s tourist spots and he gamely answered all my queries. Clearly, not only was he proficient in his home province’s unique features, he truly loved the places and things he grew up with and was proud to share them with visitors.

I would be back in Bohol many times over with family and loved ones, for leisure and for business. And each time, Bohol would have something new for me to see.