San Carlos’ Wonder: Sipaway Island

They said there wasn’t much to see this side of Negros, the Cebuano-speaking side of Occidental which probably should’ve been part of Oriental already. San Carlos City is much like its Negros Occidental sister towns – planted to sugarcane and privileged to have access to coconut lands up Mt. Kanlaon. In the recent years, prawn farming had also become popular in these parts. But like the rest of Negros Oriental, they consider themselves the “poorer”, working class side of Negros Occidental.

My sister married a San Carlos native and ended up living there to start their family. Years later, after my Bar Exams, we decided to take a Negros island tour. With my then partner, who hails from Dumaguete, my Mom and stewardess sister tagged along for the trip. We flew in from Manila via Dumaguete, and drove up to San Carlos City where we were met by my older sister. My nephews and niece were excited to see us and wanted to show us around their town. But there really wasn’t much to do and with a single tricycle ride, one would’ve been able to see the whole city already. So my youngest nephew suggested a Sipaway Island Day Tour. The 15 year old was so eager that he arranged everything himself - from negotiating for a boat, to arranging for our picnic food, the whole itinerary.

 

Like all boat rides, it’s ideal to take sail in the early morning when the waters are calm and the tide is seemingly low. We got to the port area around 6AM where our boatman was already waiting. They said the trip would take only 15 minutes to the island itself, and a couple of more minutes to circle the whole island. Composed just 2 barangays, the 7-kilometer island from tip-to-tip can be traversed in less than a day. I hear the newly-paved roads are now perfect for some biking too.

At the time we visited, there was only one resort being developed – the Whispering Palms owned by a foreigner who married a local. It was meant to have all the usual amenities, even a mini-zoo and aviary for kids. Still under construction, it wasn’t ready for guests yet. Later on, I heard there were other more reasonably-priced resorts that got established, including ones perfect for some “glamping”. The local government also promised that electrification and a clean water source would follow, and I am glad that actually got accomplished.

Much like other “young and isolated” islands in these parts, Sipaway boasts of cream-colored sand. Though not powdery-soft like Boracay, the white sands still had that pristine charm. Full of seashells and crushed coral, it was proof that the waters around the island were teeming with life. True enough, when my niece and nephews went swimming, they confirmed the place was perfect for some snorkeling.

The blue-green waters were so clear you could see starfishes of various colors at the seabed. There was minimal seaweed you can get entangled with, but shells and corals were enough hiding places for the different marine creatures. Besides fish, there were stingrays, eels, an occasional octopus and crabs. Unfortunately, there were also sea urchins whose spines can be very painful if stepped on. But sitting on the beach, enjoying the sun and the gentle sea breeze while listening to the sound of the waves lapping at the shore is priceless enough.

We were later taken to a secluded area with much shallower waters. It was like a private beach where one can swim and sunbathe in peace. Since it was also near the marshes where the mangroves abound, I noticed a few jellyfish floating around. The boatmen said these small jellyfish were eaten as delicacies, soaked in vinegar and mixed with spices “kinilaw” style. It’s a good thing there weren’t any big ones, those box-type, Portuguese Man-of-War jellyfish, I commented warily. Just then, one of the boys assisting the boatman gestured into the water. I saw a white cellophane-like material floating about near the boat where we were swimming. Just then, the boys grabbed one of the poles and started poking at the white seeming “plastic” to raise it up from the waters. It turned out to be a gigantic jellyfish! My sisters screamed and all rushed to get in the boat lest there were others around. One sting from one these box jellyfish can inject enough toxins to kill you, especially if you have allergies like me.

That encounter pretty much ended our swimming fun and we decided to continue touring the rest of the island. The wetlands surrounding Sipaway was not only a haven for various crustaceans like shrimp and crabs, they served as a sanctuary for birds as well. I wondered if the island can be turned into something like Cebu’s Olango island to support migratory birds.

The foliage of the vegetation was so dense, mangroves interspersed with some Nipa, I once again remarked it’s a good thing no crocodiles lived there like in the Florida everglades and Louisiana bayous. The boatman laughed and said in Tagalog, “Ay meron din, ma’am…minsan meron kami nakakasalubong na mga buwaya dyan kapag nangingisda o nangunguha ng alimango.” I forgot the Philippines is known for its salt-water crocodiles seen in Palawan and the Visayas-Mindanao regions. And with that, our Sipaway island adventure concluded as my sisters insisted we sail back to port already.

Or so I thought…because even in the early afternoon, a distant rain shower ensued. You can’t imagine what a little wind can do to cause some waves. As our little motorized banca approached the pantalan, the waters became rather choppy and prevented our smooth return. Even as we were eventually able to dock safely, getting off the rocking boat was another thing. And I knew my sisters’ squeals were not of fun or excitement anymore.

 

 

 

 

 

The Mountain Lake of Ormoc

When people hear about Ormoc, they think of 3 things – that devastating flood of yore, the recent earthquakes which plagued Leyte and their showbiz couple mayor and congresswoman. But I remember it mostly for an amazing mountain lake I visited once – Lake Danao.

I first visited Leyte in the 1990s for the wedding of my law school classmate and sorority sister who was a native of Ormoc. We took a Manila-Tacloban flight, then a 2-hour van trip to Ormoc City. At the time, the place was more or less developed, but not as urbanized as Tacloban. Nonetheless, it was a known fishing port, a travel hub for those enroute to Cebu, and a commercial center for this side of Leyte.

The highlight of our trip though was the pre-wedding picnic-party at the famed Lake Danao. It used to be called “Lake Imelda”, probably in honor of the former First Lady who is a Leyte native. By a Presidential decree in the 1970s, it became a nature reserve and subsequently put under the National Integrated Protected Areas System (NIPAS) law.

With an elevation similar to Tagaytay, the mountain lake is usually covered in fog, even when it wasn’t raining. My friend said it reminded her of New Zealand. As we drove up the rough and unpaved “dirt” road, the temperatures slowly cooled and the vegetation gradually thickened. Endemic hardwood trees abound, those tropical mountain plants like wild ferns, jungle orchids, and even edibles like berries, mangoes, bananas, papayas, guavas, as well as root crops like cassava, ube, gabi, and kamote grow all-around in a natural hodge-podge. In the cool weather, I was willing to bet some vegetables would likewise grow abundantly here.

When we finally reached the top, it looked like a scene straight out of the Lord of the Rings trilogy – a virtual replica of the “misty mountains”. There was a great panoramic view of the lake, tranquil green waters surrounded by the lush verdant mountain range. Momentarily covered by thick mist, possibly because of the light showers, it soon cleared enough to show its great expanse. 

Apparently, this is part of the Amandiwen range with a nearby dormant volcano Mt.Janagdan which also boasts of another mountain lake – Lake Janagdan. But while Mt. Janagdan is a genuine crater lake, Lake Danao is considered a “graben” or depression caused by the active Leyte Fault. It is also suspected that it is previously part of bigger crater lake caused by ancient volcanic eruptions. A fresh water source, Lake Danao supplies the adjoining towns and is essential for some nearby farmlands.

The lake waters were so eerily still, like glass mirroring its surroundings, hence its green color. They say Lake Danao is the deepest portion of a previous crater lake which got reduced through the centuries. This explains why there are some wetlands and marshes around Lake Danao still. Besides the usual forest creatures like deer and wild boar, there is a wide variety of birds that can be found here. There are hornbills, parakeets, owls and pigeons.

Although it appeared a bit neglected, the location had been developed as a tourist spot-park area. The facilities were still intact and useable by visitors for family picnics. A few years later, during the earthquakes, this place will suffer some damage when deep cracks appeared on the road up, and nearby areas had some landslides. Nowadays, I hear they have installed floating huts on the lake itself. 

From atop the viewing deck, we trekked down to the lake shore. The other wedding guests consisted of some German friends of the groom, and they braved the cold waters for a swim. They noted that the lake was pretty deep and when they dove down, they can’t see much despite its clear waters. We were told that its unknown depths is actually one of the big mysteries of this guitar-shaped mountain lake. Many have tried to measure it, but were unsuccessful to reach its bottom.

Locals say a possible awakening of the nearby dormant volcano or earthquakes caused by the active Leyte Fault is a danger for the adjoining areas. But like all awesome things, Lake Danao with its unique beauty comes an uncertainty that is difficulty to fathom, and people will always live with some degree of risk under it.