Monday, March 3, 2014

The Secrets of Loon

As part of my official work in late 2012, we headed for the town of Loon, a poor town whose senior citizens were beneficiaries of the social pension program. We were granted another view of the Bohol countryside - the rivers and the churches, but most of all, the people of the province going about their simple and cheerful ways. Inspite of their status as a third or fourth class municipality, Loon had an impressive senior citizens center that was fully functional. It had rooms and offices for the Office for Senior Citizens Affairs (OSCA) Head, their local nutritionist and Persons with Disabilities (PWD) focal person, as well as facilities for meetings and assemblies. I was told it is a DSWD-accredited, awarded-winning facility. Very near it is their famous church, as proud and majestic as its sisters in Baclayon and Loboc. Though much younger, the church of Our Lady of the Light, held as much significance religiously as well historically. Established in the 1700s, the original structure burned down before being restored in the 1800s. Like many churches in Bohol, it was built by the Jesuits before being turned over to the Augustinian Recollects. It was also used by Americans as a garrison against the Filipino guerillas. Only in 2010 was it declared a national historical site. A long crack ran across the left-side façade of Loon church also known as Our Lady of the Light parish. The local social welfare aide who accompanied us said it was from the last big earthquake they had in the 1990s. But what makes Loon special are the stone steps at the back of the church. Stretching straight from the sea and passing the town proper up to the church itself, this infrastructure was used extensively by the Spaniards during the height of the galleon trade. The only other stairs like these that I know of are the ruins I saw at the St. James church in Iguig, Cagayan Valley. Any foto-ops on these stairs are reminiscent of Intramuros and its historic remnants, and I strongly recommend the site for pre-nups. Upon the mayor’s suggestion, we were also taken to Loon’s nature park- a mangrove reserve which features the rare sea-going Macaque monkeys. I have seen many mangrove parks before, from Lanao, Negros, Mindoro, to Palawan and Capiz, but all I saw between the receding waters and ebbing tides were the stranded fish and crabs, darting in and out of holes in the sand. And as for the monkeys, besides the zoo, the only other place I saw monkeys walking around in relative freedom were in Subic. But in Loon, there are monkeys that actually go down to the waters to hunt for small crabs, shrimps, and seashells. It is amazing to see these Macaque monkeys - unafraid of the seawater, cracking open seashells and eating fresh seafood. I once saw a feature on this National Geographic on TV, but seeing it first-hand was a real treat. Less than a year later, the great earthquake of Bohol would occur. Many of the historic churches would crumble and be heavily damaged. While majority of Loboc church collapsed, some parts of it survived. Loon’s Our Lady of the Light was not as lucky and it was destroyed completely. Nothing of the church remained, not its walls, its façade or its foundations. The cultural treasure of Bohol since 2010 was totally flattened. Even the stone steps behind the church were also damaged. Cracked in many parts, it could not survive the same temblor that left gaping sinkholes and sinking coastal barangays in different areas of the province. The province of Bohol was known for many years as an NPA rebel stronghold. But even during Spanish times, it served as a haven for Filipino revolutionaries, partly due to its natural mountain and forest covers. What Bohol could not escape is the possibly the poverty or the low economic status of its people. Their version of eco-tourism was suppose to generate the necessary income for the province and as the favourite tourist and vacation spot it has become, it was doing just that. It was unfortunate that the earthquake damaged so much infrastructure – roads and bridges, and even the old churches that were its pride and joy. But if there’s anything that will help them get back on their feet, it’s the spirituality and hope Boholanos always had. Their simple living and perseverance, and their continuing faith, will help restore what they once had. Now if only the government also does its job and step in where necessary..