Monday, December 30, 2013
Secrets of Secluded Tuburan
Quaint and Historic Carcar
Bucolic and Peaceful Barili
Off The Beaten Path Series: Cross-Country Cebu

Sunday, September 22, 2013
This Being the National Family Week
Tuesday, September 10, 2013
Why My Personal IS Political
Thursday, August 8, 2013
A Poem (for Toni)
When the Fruit Falls Far from the Tree (The Disappointment that is Lagman)
Captivating Capiz 2: Visiting Panay
My travel agent, Ms. Vickie and her family took an unintended holiday to serve as our tour guides the day we arrived in Capiz. Eager to make our first visit memorable, she took us to the nearby municipality of Panay which also happens to be her husband’s hometown. Panay is the second Spanish settlement founded by Miguel Lopez de Legaspi when they left Cebu for lack of food. With meandering river networks criss-crossing the land and the lush mangroves constantly inundated by the sea’s tides, food sources were clearly abundant. The Spanish then built ports that were used for the galleon trades and even a shipyard at one time for constructing their boats. One river channel actually boasts of a sunken galleon, and when it’s low tide, some fishermen claim they can still see part of it under water. Unfortunately, this attraction has been closed to the public when some local politician insisted on claiming it’s on his private property.
Besides being one of the oldest towns in the Philippines, Panay was also the original capital of Capiz. Crossing over from Roxas City proper to Panay town, Ms. Vickie pointed out that the bridge was destroyed and blown up numerous times in history; but that has saved them from virtual massacres that happened to Roxas City’s people. Houses along the road enroute to the famous Sta. Monica Church used to be so numerous, but they were also burned down by the Spaniards after discovering these were Katipuneros’ homes. In church, they wore these red bandanas on their necks while attending mass as a sign of protest until the local friars found out. What remains now are rebuilt homes of the descendants of these early settlers.
Sta.Monica Church is already a common tourist destination in the travel brochures. As one of the oldest in the Philippines, it was the first parish established on Panay island. Like its contemporaries, this church was constructed by the Augustinians, hence, its imposing and formidable design. Made up of coralstones bound by molasses and eggs, it has side supports similar to the church in Paoay, Ilocos Norte.
It boasts of a gigantic bell – the largest, and possibly, the heaviest in Asia. While it has a replica of equal size near the church entrance and beside the convent, the actual bell is housed in the 5-story belltower. One must climb the 60-or-so steps of some very steep stairs and brave the heights before one can experience its magnificence. Constructed using 70 sacks of coins collected from the townspeople, the bell was cast in 1878 and weighs 10.4 tons. At 7 feet in height and 5 feet in diameter, it dwarfs its companions, the 8 other bells that share its tower.
There is also a clock on this belfry, but its mechanical contraption has long ceased to be. One can still see its old, rusted mechanism on the last platform before the bells. They say when the bell tolls, it can be heard for miles across the plains of Capiz, the same area that can be viewed from atop the belltower.
The church and its giant bell aren’t the only attractions at Sta. Monica. Beside it is the parish convent that houses both the parish office and the church museum. Although recognized as a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Institute in 1997, Museo de Sta.Monica was only opened in 2008. The museum contains church relics and artifacts that range from old priestly garbs to statues and carvings of saints and other religious images, to even remnants of the original hardwood used as church foundations which can be bought as souvenirs.
Most interesting was the Old Spanish Well at the back of the church. Still intact in its original state, it has long dried up, but it once served as an important water source for many generations. Beside it are 12 pots of chilli pepper plants reminiscent of the same potted plants sent over by Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, the first Governor-General to King Phillip and Queen Isabella of Spain from the settlement of Panay, Capiz.
Sta. Monica has its own local tour guide, and he explained that the church compound used to be built like the walled city of Intramuros. Not only was it a church, it also served as a fortress for the Spaniards. Hence, throughout history, even the Americans and Japanese used it as a military fort. And as a grim reminder, the area at the back of the compound used to be a dumping ground for those executed by the Spanish and Japanese alike. It is said that there used to be a dirt path going to a cemetery, but sometimes soldiers didn’t even bother for a decent burial anymore. Hence, it is no wonder that people tell of eerie stories in the area. Although now densely populated and with several constructed houses, people still speak of hearing strange moans and groans, of women and children crying in the dead hours of the night. It is also not surprising that some houses seem unoccupied and have difficulty selling. Ms. Vickie admits even her sensitive-travel agent friend who came for a visit complained of feeling weird about the place when they dropped by the church.
The richness of the historic significance of Panay cannot be highlighted enough. Ms. Vickie’s own home is evidence in itself. As her husband, Marlo’s ancestral house, their family heirlooms alone make for interesting museum pieces. In fact, Ms. Vickie was right on the mark as she is in the process of transforming their home into a mini museum. She has bricks from the old sugar central, original bottles from the Spanish distilleries, porcelain plates and genuine, heavy duty silverware. In their backyard, while they were developing it as a restaurant and butterfly garden, they uncovered an old Japanese latrine-bath area. Old folks say it was because the neighboring public school was also used by the Japanese during World War II as their headquarters. And so this lends credence to the fact there may be hidden treasures in and around Capiz itself, as some Japanese tourists keep coming back to the province with strange maps, looking for secret locations even the locals know nothing about.
A taste of Capiz left me wanting more, and so I promised Ms. Vickie, and myself, I will return one day for another sampling on Capiz’ wonders.
Monday, June 24, 2013
My Vows for Toni
Sunday, June 9, 2013
Captivated by Capiz, Enamored with Roxas City
The first thing my friends told me when they found out I was going to Capiz was to bring some garlic and/or salt with me to ward off the infamous aswangs. That impression is by far the single most notorious belief about Capiz, and I would say rather unfairly too.
To dispel any other myths and misconceptions about Capiz, the locals organized an Aswang Festival a few years back. Their way of poking fun at themselves and their detractors upset the clergy and convinced them it was a bad idea. The apparent influence of the Church in these parts just shows the religiosity of its people, contrary to its reputation of being the land of the aswangs.
Landing in Roxas City, I got a great view of the sea and the nearby beaches. Although in the same region as Iloilo, Guimaras and Boracay, Capiz is not well-known among avid beach-goers as a popular tourist destination. Yet I am told that it boasts of the same pristine waters and white, powdery sand in many of its islands and coastal areas. In fact, nearby Olotayan Island, just a few minutes boatride from Roxas City can give Boracay a run for its money.
Fortunately, one of Capiz’ redeeming qualities is its being known as the Seafood Capital of thePhilippines. If anyone wants to gorge on shellfish, seaweed and a wide array of bounty-from-the-sea, this is the place to head off to. With its coastline and river networks still abundant with mangroves, it’s no wonder crabs, shrimps, clams and oysters are teeming in these waters.
While there are actually many restaurants within Roxas City to have your fill of seafood, a good place to go to is the Seafood Court and People’s Park at BaybayBeach. Just a stone’s throw away from DILG Secretary Mar Roxas’ home, its open area has a short promenade and a great view of the nearby islands – Mantalinga and Olotayan. The beachline is currently being renovated with establishments being moved away from the coastline itself, but numerous seafood restaurants and resorts line this boulevard of sorts.
For the budget conscious, there are many cheap hotels in the city proper. Most lodgings are reasonably priced and within walking distance from food establishments. Tricycles, the major mode of transport in these parts, are easily available at every turn and will take you anywhere within Roxas City for a mere P8.00 fare. Most tourist sites are also quite accessible.
Named after its most famous son, the first President of the Philippine Republic Manuel Roxas, the city’s significance in Philippine history doesn’t begin or end with him. The local museum that houses various artifacts and some memorabilia on the late President Roxas and other illustrious sons and daughters of Capiz, was built at the turn of the century and used to be an old watertank. Beside the “Ang Panubli-on” museum is a mini-park with a statue of President Roxas. This small enclosure also serves as a favorite hang-out of the local senior citizens and is a cozy, shady sanctuary in the sunny albeit humid city.
A few steps away is the riverbanks area which is surprisingly very clean and well-maintained. While there are a few boats navigating its waters and offering rides, it has not been commercialized enough to cause undue pollution. Reminiscent of some American architectural influence, there is a grand pavilion referred to as the Roxas City Bandstand. Constructed in the 1920s by Jose Roldan, the first Filipino headmaster of the Capiz Trade School, it’s where one can take a photo with a picturesque background of the Panay River and the Roxas City bridge. Built in 1910, the Roxas City bridge also known as the old Capiz Bridge, connects the political center to the commercial areas of the city and has historically help usher in development to Capiz.
A similar Western flavor can be seen in the city’s central water fountain which also serves as a “rotunda” of sorts for vehicular traffic. Lighting up in colors in the evenings, this fountain has the Provincial Capitol, the Metropolitan Cathedral and the City Hall bordering it from two sides. And somewhere in the busy maze of streets and ancient buildings is the ancestral home of President Roxas. But unlike most ancestral houses which have been transformed into self-supporting museums, theirs is still currently occupied by some descendants and hence, not open to the public.
Nearby churches and belltowers are a testament to how entrenched the Spanish colonizers were in these parts. The Immaculate Conception Metropolitan Cathedral within the town plaza is one of the oldest in the region and was constructed with the blood and sweat of Filipinos coerced into Forced Labor by the Spaniards. Read any Filipino history book and know that many uprisings occurred in the region, including the Panay revolt of 1663 started by a babaylan turned Christian named Tapar.
Near the very modern Government and Business Center and Villareal Stadium is another park with memorials to Capiz’ war heroes. One image on horseback is a tribute to General Esteban Contreras who rebelled against the Spanish and American colonizers with a motley crew of peasants. An obelisk-like structure as well as a smaller memorial with embossed names are dedicated to the heroes and victims of the Japanese Occupation in the 1940s. In fact, the nearby Capiz National High School with its famous 48-step staircase was once used as a Japanese garrison. Quite aptly, the office of the regional vice-president of the Veterans Federation of the Philippines is located nearby.
Since I am allergic to most crustaceans, it took more than seafood for Capiz to impress me. But with its rich historical and cultural traits, as well as its natural beauty, I was completely enamored.
Monday, June 3, 2013
My Toni and Baby IV
On My 43rd
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
My "Jetsetting" 2012

Saturday, March 9, 2013
For Ladlad

Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)



